During the last decade, TAG Heuer has discovered itself caught between two worlds: That of the deep-cut fanatic and the entry-level, first-time watch purchaser. Over time, it’s developed an providing that satiates each teams. On one facet, there’s been a bevy of limited-edition Heuer throwbacks, from the HODINKEE Skipper LE to numerous Carrera and Monaco classic reissues (or reinterpretations). On the opposite, you may stroll into mainly any big-name division retailer and discover all method of TAG Heuers within the Aquaracer vary – each computerized and quartz – at pretty accessible around-$2,000 worth factors.
The model generally catches a little bit of flack from lovers for its broad attain. Phrases like “mall watch” get bandied round fairly a bit. And to be sincere, that commentary is fairly unfair. The watch interest ought to be inviting, accessible, and enjoyable. And accessibility to 1 watch can open up the world of watches … ought to one select to take the leap. And admittedly, most watch manufacturers don’t supply that alternative.
And we’ll take a part of that blame! We’ve spent our personal share of time lamenting that TAG’s Aquaracer providing got here mainly in a 43mm sizing for years. Finally we got here to the conclusion that the model’s dive watch assortment merely wasn’t for “us” however reasonably the mass-consumer. That was till March of 2022 – throughout LVMH Watch Week when TAG took its two worlds and forcibly collided them.
The gray dial Aquaracer Skilled 200 Date 40mm. Photograph by Tiffany Wade
Enter the 40mm Aquaracer 200 Outdoor – the watch that knocked our proverbial socks off (and possibly our literal ones too, had we not been carrying sneakers once we noticed the look ahead to the primary time). A 40mm TAG Heuer sounds apparent sufficient – as a result of it as soon as was super-prevalent – nevertheless it’s confirmed to be a measurement choice lacking from the model’s assortment for a lot of the aughts, the entire teenagers, and subsequently, the early a part of the ’20s. So when it arrived and we have been offered with it – each in computerized and quartz type – one sentiment got here to thoughts: TAG Heuer, the Swiss entry-level model, is again.
On the mini-trade present in Midtown Manhattan that was LVMH Watch Week, beneath vivid workplace lighting, I spent a few hours with the 40mm Aquaracer in its gray dial configuration. I bought to know the dial, the bracelet, the caseback, the wrist-feel, and the overall providing. I noticed the black dial quartz mannequin in all of its date-less glory. However one factor that bummed me out was the absence of the blue dial variant with its punchy use of shade and customarily thrilling vibe.
So when the blue dial Aquaracer made its method to me, I noticed I wanted one thing greater than the hands-on remedy I gave the gray variation. I wanted greater than a day, various days … per week, maybe?
Making Sense Of A Seemingly Easy Launch
In case you look again to the Nineteen Eighties, ’90s, and early 2000s, TAG Heuer had a a lot bigger presence on wrists, usually. We’re speaking a few identify model with a wallet-friendly assortment of tool-adjacent watches. The Heuer, after which post-acquisition TAG Heuer Skilled sequence have been about as ubiquitous as a Submariner. You want solely look again at our episode of Speaking Watches with Keegan Allen through which he recollects the story of his late father’s Purple Submariner. He talks about how his dad did all the pieces in his Sub, from spending time open air to fishing. After which at some point, he traded it in for a brand new device watch. And what watch was that, you ask? A quartz TAG Heuer Skilled. Allen’s father wore that watch as a lot because the Sub, and Allen himself cherishes it because it carries fond reminiscences.
That is all to say that TAG, for the entire “mall watch” discuss, has as many bona fides as the unique Heuer model. We frequently pass over the late ’80s and ’90s as a result of they weren’t as romantic an epoch within the story of watches – however to do this is to overlook when TAG had its biggest affect – the time when the 40mm TAG Heuer diver was the best child at school.
So when it got here time to essentially buckle down and assess the brand new TAG Heuer Aquaracer 40mm in its correct context, I wanted to ask the query: Who is that this for? The reply wasn’t fairly so easy. Clearly this launch was the reply to these of us who had been shouting from the rooftops to see the model return to its roots. However on the identical time, in its sub-$3,000 worth level, the Aquaracer 40mm is each bit for the novice collector or first-time watch purchaser. And essentially the most thrilling factor is that that new purchaser will likely be strutting round city in a wearable, 40mm watch, versus a 43mm or bigger water resistant behemoth (there’s completely a time and a spot for a watch that giant, however I’ll die on the 40mm hill).
What’s extra fascinating in analyzing this concept, is making an attempt to determine what these completely different watch consumers are searching for in a watch like this. I believe it’s protected to say {that a} collector or fanatic is after a mixture of high quality and historical past. From the historic standpoint, the Aquaracer 40mm is the non secular successor to the Skilled vary from many years in the past. From the metal bezel to the closed caseback, I believe this performs into the “do much less” model that many people search for in a contemporary watch and hardly discover. Talking of recent, that is fashionable with a capital M (I suppose I may have simply made the “M” capital within the first place). The design is recent and clear with no trace of classic affectation. The fanatic loves a great classic watch, however will even respect a contemporary one performed thoughtfully – which may be very a lot the case right here.
The primary-timer, conversely, is open to studying what it’s they like. They’re invariably drawn to one thing that appears good and seems to be good high quality for all the cash they’ve saved up. Right here, there’s visible curiosity within the dial – together with the colourful blue shade – and a little bit of flash within the bracelet by means of the polished middle hyperlinks. The scale additionally provides versatility as a result of a watch like that is sporty sufficient to hold by the pool, however has the precise steadiness of fashion and development to make it an ideal match for work apparel. It’s TAG Heuer’s model of the “solely watch you’ll ever want.” And each model wants a kind of.
However a lot of this evaluation is an mental train. I’m right here guessing what hypothetical teams of individuals would love (this what I do in my spare time, apparently). However I additionally spent per week with this watch getting actual suggestions on what I like. In that point, I have to say, it stunned me.
A Week On The Wrist
The very first thing I seen can also be the obvious promoting level of this new Aquaracer – the scale. That is 40mm of chrome steel, or as James Stacey would possibly say, one unit of watch. And it wears no bigger and no smaller than its measurement suggests – it’s true to its measurements. In truth, placing this on my wrist, I bought the rapid feeling that it was a watch I’d worn earlier than. After all, it wasn’t, nevertheless it simply immediately felt proper, and that doesn’t occur usually on this world. Most instances a watch seems to be good in pictures, within the hand, and even resting on a desk. However the second you get it on wrist – properly, that magic dissipates. Right here, the get together continues from the hand to the wrist.
I believe that has one thing to do with the general aesthetic offered right here. As an alternative of sustaining the ceramic bezel design from the 43mm fashions into the 40mm – TAG Heuer stored issues easy, and the watch is best for it. The brushed metal bezel with contrasting black numerals is inarguably the best part of this all-steel get together of a watch. Preserving the bezel metal permits it to gel with the general fashionable design language baked into the watch. It completes the pseudo-industrial look. Positive, ceramic would have labored, however metal works higher. Conversely, if TAG Heuer had opted to throw issues again to an aluminum bezel providing, we’d be having the “vintage-inspired” discuss. And fortunately, we don’t must. Save that for the Heuer-only fashions.
After which there’s that dial. Whereas I used to be sufficiently impressed with the gray variant, this vivid blue smoked instance was vastly extra enjoyable. The coloration peaks on the middle and falls to virtually a stark black on the edges. In indoor environs it’s a pleasant, nice blue – however get this factor below direct daylight, and the blue reads as virtually neon. It’s the type of impact you don’t wish to take your eyes off of, and I hardly ever did when carrying this one.
The utilized markers in a stark white explode off the dial, making it extraordinarily legible irrespective of the lighting situations. In truth, in whole darkness you may see the dual-color luminescent remedy in Tremendous-LumiNova. The dial itself is textured with horizontal traces. I discussed this in my introductory submit nevertheless it offers off one thing of a Patek Nautilus vibe, though much less so within the blue fumè instance I spent per week with. The visible curiosity prepare retains on rolling whenever you get to the step chapter ring for the minute markers. The Aquaracer wordmark and TAG emblem are located close to 12 o’clock and the depth ranking close to six. Look a bit deeper and also you’ll discover the date window squarely at six o’clock.
So far as date apertures go, that is about nearly as good because it will get as a result of it pleases everybody. It’s properly built-in and matches the black outer edges of the dial. And the very best half is that it doesn’t make the most of the cyclops magnification discovered on the 43mm mannequin. After all, the quartz variant of this watch has no date window. And whereas I believe an fanatic would favor a no-date execution, I respect the inclusion of it right here for 2 causes: One, it’s an inherently helpful complication, and two, it permits the first-time consumers, who would probably want the date, to enter the world of TAG through a mechanical watch. It’s a win-win.
The overall form of the metal bezel is dodecagonal, giving the Aquaracer a barely completely different look from the dive watch design we see time and again from mainly any model that makes a diver. The brushed nature of the bezel matches that of the case and feeds proper into the bracelet, which options polished middle hyperlinks. Would I want the brushed look that the 43mm fashions have? Perhaps. Traditionally although, the TAG Heuer Skilled fashions got here on jubilee-style bracelets which created a mix of sport and magnificence. I consider this brushed/polished execution as the trendy model of that supreme. It’s a bit utilitarian with simply sufficient fanciful components. The clasp is pure utility, providing on-the-fly micro-adjustments.
Flip the watch over and also you’ll discover a closed, engraved caseback. By way of the Aquaracer line at giant, that is nothing new – solely now the engraving has even been up to date from a diving motif to a compass. That’s as a result of this mannequin isn’t marketed a lot as a dive watch as it’s a multi-purpose journey watch. The engraving is okay, I don’t take care of show casebacks so it really works for me. Behind the compass engraving is the TAG Heuer Caliber 5 (ETA base) providing 40 hours of energy reserve. It’s not the very best motion on the market, nevertheless it’s greater than you’ll ever want and helps preserve the worth down.
In my A Week on the Wrist video overview, I did slightly cosplay as completely different consumers for this watch. Because of this, I had just a few completely different outfits or costume adjustments. Irrespective of the clothes alternative, I discovered that the watch wore nice. The bracelet is snug, the case is well-proportioned, the dial legible, and the carrying expertise enjoyable. I may conceivably see myself shopping for this watch and having it as a carefree different to a few of my different divers that simply received’t cease going up in worth.
The Competitors
Talking of different watches, right here’s a listing of another budget-friendly divers you might come throughout when you’re seeking to buy a 40mm Aquaracer.
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
You merely can’t have a dialogue about value-packed, pitch-perfect-sized dive-style watches with out mentioning the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. I truly assume there’s a rule towards it. With the Tudor, you’re getting a Rolex-quality product with an insanely well-made bracelet and an in-house motion for lower than $4,000. Not like the Aquaracer 40mm, this watch is all in regards to the classic cues. The dial is gilt, the bezel is gilt, and the markers have hints of faux-patina. Just like the Aquaracer, it incorporates a closed caseback. It additionally is available in below the 40mm mark, at 39mm. There’s a few $1,000 worth distinction between these watches so it finally boils right down to what you want, and what you’re prepared to pay for.
Seiko Prospex SPB143
Right here it’s, the James Stacey particular. The Seiko SPB143 got here out in the course of 2020 and has since turn out to be one thing of an icon in its personal proper – or on the very least, a horological darling. It ticks the 40mm field completely, and even has a metal bezel (although it’s handled to look black with contrasting white numerals). This watch is one more train in advancing by simplifying. Seiko pulled from the design of its earliest divers to create a contemporary execution that’s exhausting to disclaim. Add in Seiko’s in-house caliber 6R15, which could not be essentially the most correct (however who stated device watches must be?) and at $1,200, it presents a worth that’s actually exhausting to argue with.
Oris Aquis Caliber 400
On this worth section, in the case of blue dial divers, it’s inconceivable not to think about the Oris Aquis. Right here we now have the caliber 400 mannequin – the model’s in-house motion – in a 41.5mm instance. That is definitely a bigger watch and it’ll put on as such, so it’s not a lot competitors within the wearability division as it’s for these actually comparable TAG options from a worth and use-case perspective. After all, that motion comes at a premium, on this case $3,500. However at that worth, with a manufacture caliber, glorious model historical past, and a uniquely fashionable design – it deserves a minimum of a glance.
Zodiac Tremendous Sea Wolf 53
The Tremendous Sea Wolf 53 is one thing of a deep-cut alternative. In truth, I believe you actually must be “within the know” to even have Zodiac in your radar. For many who do know, nonetheless, what you get with a watch like that is the model heritage, a distinctly classic design ethos (which isn’t overdone on this case), and downright affordability. This instance shares the metal bezel aesthetic with the TAG Heuer Aquaracer 40mm and is available in at 39mm. It has a STP (Swiss Expertise Manufacturing) 1-11 computerized motion which is a Selitta base and never too far off from the ETA 2824 base within the Aquaracer. It’s about $1,500 much less in worth, too, so it boils down to private choice.
Concluding Ideas
Carrying the TAG Heuer Aquaracer 40mm for per week actually cemented the concept that the model has actually created an amazing watch for everybody. Collectors and lovers alike can revel at TAG’s return to 40mm type – and consequently, I hope to see extra of my counterparts within the trade giving this one a shot. These new to the interest can enter through a fairly sized, although no much less fashionable choice. Might this be an indication that the large watch development is lastly coming to an finish? I received’t go that far (giant watches have their place on this trade, too), however I’ll say this: It’s necessary to offer any watch on the market an opportunity. I by no means thought a 40mm TAG Heuer would rank amongst my favourite releases of the yr. However it does – and I’m not mad about it.
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Skilled 200 Date. Reference 40mm chrome steel case. Unidirectional bezel in metal. Water-resistance of 200 meters. Blue fumé dial, six o’clock date. Automated TAG Heuer Caliber 5 (ETA 2824-2 base). Chrome steel bracelet with micro-adjustable clasp.
